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The Strangford Lough islands just outside Comber in Northern Ireland offer a morning dillydallying among mudflats, snapping happy pics of a cerulean spring sky that is honestly beyond capture. Mini causeways connect tiny islands, secluded residences, and a series of early medieval fieldstone and greywacke ruins. Somewhere in the backdrop, gently swirling eddys lap and slosh over pungent tidal saltmarshes.
This Strangford Lough Islands mini adventure will take you to new places with names like Rolly Island, Reigh Island, Cross Island, and Mahee Island. When you think of islands in Northern Ireland, I bet you already knew of Rathlin Island off the coast of Ballycastle, as well as Devenish Island or Boa Island in Lower Lough Erne. Or, if you’ve ventured a little further down the coast, you’ll also have seen Inishmore with its terrifying prehistoric Dún Aonghasa fort perched right on the edge of the Atlantic, as well as nearby Inishmaan and Inisheer. And, of course, everyone knows of the remote Aran Islands off County Galway, famous for their preservation of Ireland’s Gaeltacht heritage. Then, we also have the beautiful Achill Island off County Mayo and the eye-watering spike of Skellig Michael monastic rock off Country Kerry.
This route begins a little further inland with breakfast in Comber and incorporates my half-day itinerary for exploring a little cluster of Strangford Lough islands right here in Northern Ireland.
08:30 Breakfast at Goose Coffee House in Comber
No day out could begin any better that at The Goose Coffee House in Comber, whose decor could reliably be described as shabby chic – but with the emphasis heavily on the chic. There’s literally nothing shabby about this beautiful little coffee house, from its ivy-clad stone exterior to its French bistro chairs and chunky wooden pews. Mismatched traditional Aynsley, tiered cake stands, and afternoon teas complete the look.
What I love most about this cute little eating establishment is the light that floods in from the giant windows, making it a perfect spot to waken up slowly and plan your day.
From Comber, it’s a leisurely 15 minute drive to the start of this island route at Ringneill Quay.
10:00 Strangford Lough Islands
Strangford Lough, eh? Islands?! Yes. These Strangford Lough islands are among an estimated 365 dotted around the lough and can be explored, on foot, by cycle, by car, and by boat.
To get to the start of this route, head out of Comber on the Killincy Road, turn off onto Ballydrain Road, then onto Ringneill Road and follow the road right to Ringneil Quay. All causeways connecting the islands are passable even in high tide. So, while you could technically drive or walk onto these Strangford Lough islands, be mindful that some may be owned outright by residents either individually or by two or more residents in common. Take care to pay attention to ‘Private’ signs and other indications that you are nearing private property and be respectful of that. Even for those islands that are inaccessible, the views as you travel past are perfectly serene and worth the short drive.
Rolly Island
Rolly Island is a low-lying little island close to Magee Island, and is surrounded by tidal mudlflats and shallow channels typical of the area. Nature lowers can enjoy spotting curlews, oyster-catchers, and even seals. At the centre of this tiny island, there seems to be a central cluster of residential properties.
Though there is a track right onto the island, it appears to be completely private property.
Reigh Island (also known as ‘Reagh Island’)
This is one of the largest islands in Strangford Lough. Like lots of others in the area, its foreshore (otherwise known as a ‘wet beach’) is owned by the National Trust and there is a small car park where you can stop off for a walk through Islandreagh Wood or along the waterfront.
Cross Island
Like Rolly Island, this island is also private.
Mahee Island
Mahee Island is known for being the site of Mahee Castle and Nendrum Monastic Site.
11:00 Nendrum Tidal Mill
At the Nendrum Tidal Mill site, you can spot the remains of the oldest watermill in the world – a unusual tidal mill thought to have been built in AD 619-621.
Find out more about Nendrum Tidal Mill.
11:15 Mahee Castle Ruins (also known as ‘Nendrum Castle’)
Captain Thomas Brown, a local landowner, built the tower house in 1570 right at the entrance to Mahee Island, likely to control access. Surviving details include a murder hole, vaulted ceiling, and stairwell, with a nearby bawn wall and paving. Historians estimate that Mahee Castle fell into disuse around the 17th century, with some of its stone blocks used in the causeway onto the island. Rediscovered again in the 1920s, it was excavated and stabilized. Knives, keys, rings, slate, bone, pottery, and a human skull were all found on the site.
Mahee Castle is situated just after the tiny bridge onto the island and there is a small pull-in space where you can park for pictures.
Find out more about Mahee Castle.
11:45 Nendrum Monastic Site
Mo Chaoi, an associate or disciple of Saint Patrick, founded a church there in the 5th century. When his name was anglicised, it became ‘Mahee’ and was used for the townland and island in which Nendrum is located.
A pre-Norman monastic settlement is recorded on the site at Mahee Island in the 7th century. Records show that it was in operation right through to the 12th century, when John de Courcy founded a Benedictine monastery. While the monastery did not thrive, the church operated until it fell into disuse by the 15th century.
The site was uncovered again in 1844 by bishop William Reeves, who used 1306 taxation record to help locate the foundations of the church, including the Round Tower. Later, some excavation, restoration, and documention was carried out by local archaeologist and Ballymena businessman, Henry Cairnes Lawlor, from the History & Philosophical Society.
Today, you can see the ruins of three concentric stone enclosures; a monk’s graveyard; spaces for huts, workshops, and a school; a church and round tower, a restored sundial; and evidence of a cereal-drying kiln and a bronze smithy.
The visitor centre nearby contains 15 cross-inscribed stones, one of the largest groupings of the Celtic cross type found in Ireland (including 8 known as the unique ‘Nendrum Cross’ shape with curved indentations where the bars of the cross intersect). The centre also displays a model of how the site, church, and monastery might have looked in its heyday.
Nendrum Monastic Site is a place you can spend an inordinate amount of time. And, since it is one of enduring religious value, it retains a peaceful atmostphere that slowed down my breathing unlike anywhere else I have visited. Christians of all branches of the faith may find it a calming place to be still, meditate and pray.
Thanks to Robert M Chapple for some of the historical information above.
13:30 Late Lunch at the Old Post Office Lisbane
Once you’re back out on the mainland at Ringneill Quay, it’s a short 10 minute drive out to The Old Post Office in the village of Lisbane.
The building in which Lisbane Post Office is situated dates back to the 1840s and is Grade II listed. You can enjoy everything from breakfast to a three-course lunch here, including afternoon tea or a Friday night supper club. Aside from the reliably fresh, local food, excellent presentation, and professional service, I love that there are lots of little nooks and crannies to sit, meaning lunch always feels like a private affair.
Shoppers will also enjoy their on-site gift shop and deli offering lots of take-out options including salads, desserts, and local bakery favourites like sourdough and wheaten.
Find out more about The Old Post Office Lisbane.
Information on Stranford Lough Islands
You can find more information at the links above. And, if you’d like to explore more of County Down, then check out Things to Do Ards Peninsula – 1 Day Itinerary next, for ideas on more coastal nooks to explore on the other side of Strangford Lough – with more coastal views, places to stop for local cuisine, as well as curious and ancient historial sites.
Cover image by K. Mitch Hodge on Unsplash. All others, blogger’s own.
